Apr 192011
 

About 50% of the time when I ask a customer “What stock would you like this on?” the answer I get is “Whatever you think it will look best (or print best) on.” I always wonder if they imagine a paper storage room with papers that print well on one side and papers that don’t on the other. Sometimes, I think it would be a lot easier if we stocked only one or two kinds of paper. But we don’t.

In the often confusing world of digital printing, paper weights and types have managed to distinguish themselves as a confusing topic for most people. Part of the problem lies in paper’s greatest drawback; it is a tactile product. Talk about it all you want; write long, complicated descriptions that start to sound a little like how a wine taster describes a wine; give it a brightness number. In the end, people want to FEEL the paper. And yet, this is also paper’s greatest asset, the reason it will probably survive the rush to a digital world. Paper has texture. Paper has a glossy or a smooth or a rough surface. It has depth. It has warmth.

In general there are only a few “rules” about what to print on, and these are very pragmatic. Things going through the mail need to be a certain minimum weight. No big surprise here. I have never had anyone try to send a post card that was printed on a text weight. Yet. BRC’s (business reply cards) must be a certain minimum weight. But aside from these few considerations, paper choice is a matter of taste and design. We try to stock a broad enough range of paper to meet most of those considerations.

Many US paper mills are no more. A good deal of our paper is from Canadian mills, some is from overseas. By the time it’s re-cut, re-branded, re-packaged and re-sold, it’s not always clear who actually manufactured it. Paper can be the cause of huge headaches in the digital print business. Humidity, too much or too little, can cause paper to jam unexpectedly, double-sheet feed, or curl out of the press. We keep most of our paper in sealed packs until we’re ready to use it. (We used to keep all of our paper in sealed plastic bins… the technology has gotten better.) We are very reluctant to add a new paper to our inventory until we have performed extensive testing. Sometimes, a rep (or a customer) will bring us in a few sample sheets which seem to run fine. Then when we begin the larger project, we suddenly experience multiple problems as the device heats up, or we try to duplex, or in finishing.

Most paper has some kind of a grain. In traditional (ink on paper) printing, the grain is usually “long” which means it runs parallel to the direction of the movement through the press (or is parallel to the longest side of the cut sheet). This gives the paper extra strength to navigate the many turns and twists through the press. In general, in digital printing, we like for the grain to be short so the sheet is more flexible. Grain is much more important when you get to finishing.

There are a couple of ways to check the grain. The easiest is to look at the packaging. The direction of the grain is usually the second number you see. 8-1/2″x11″ paper is long grain. 11″x8-1/2″ paper is short grain. (We speak of 12×18 as a stock paper size, but the package says 18×12.) If the paper is loose, fold the sheet you have in half in both directions and feel the folded edge. Folds with the grain will be much smoother than folds against the grain. I know there are other ways; tearing the paper will reveal its grain, but I think this is a bit more difficult to discern.

Grain comes into play more when you are finishing; folding, scoring, etc. Folding across the grain leaves a ragged edge unless you score first. For some paper weights, you need to score anyway, but especially in the lighter weight texts, trying to keep the grain going in the right direction when you are step and repeating a file can be the subject of some serious mental calisthenics. Scores across the grain need to be different than scores with the grain.

Next: paper weights and surfaces.

Apr 122011
 

Ain’t technology grand? Digital printing has certainly changed things. Few of our customers today know what rubylith is (or was), have ever seen a stat camera, or have come home at the end of the day with a few miscellaneous words stuck to their elbow like oversized flakes of dandruff.

But digital printing is a two-edged sword and it takes some special considerations to get the most out of it. Let’s begin with the most obvious one, color. At a traditional printer (ink on paper), each color you add will probably change the price of your job. At most digital printers (toner-based), there’s one price for color and one for black and white. At a traditional printer you may pay a bit more for a piece printed, say, all in blue. It will probably include the expense of a press wash, but it will still be a one-color project. At a digital printer, you will probably be charged the same price as if you were printing a full color photograph covering that page.

These are considerations that should probably be made at the the design level. Once you’ve designed the piece in one color, you’ve substantially diminished the likelihood of digital printing as an economical choice down the line. On the other hand, if you plan on using digital output, let your creative juices fly and take advantage of the power of color to make your point or sell your product. Don’t forget to add color photos wherever you can. This is an expensive process in traditional printing; you need scanning, 4-color separations, and careful alignment of the plates for it to work. Not so in digital printing; take the electronic file of the image and drop it in the layout. Done. Well, you might want to make sure the image is CMYK and not RGB.

Which brings me to difference between the color models. If you’ve ever gotten your digital prints back and noticed that the color photos looked a bit flat or off color, there’s a chance you may have used RGB files instrad of CMYK. Most digital cameras, by default, shoot in RGB. This is the Red-Green-Blue color model. Almost all the light that is emitted by natural sources (e.g the Sun) is in this color spectrum, as most probably is the monitor you are viewing this page. It is the spectrum of transmitted light. If you think way, way back to High School health class, you may vaguely remember something about “rods” and “cones.” Well, that’s the connection, we see by interpreting the RGB spectrum. If you do the math you find there’s nearly 17,000,000 colors you can make with this combination (there are 256 steps of each color that are possible on your RGB monitor). Turn on the red, green and blue lights full strength on you monitor (or in the Sun) and you have white.

CMYK (Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, and Black) on the other hand, is what we see when most things are printed. It is a product of reflected light. Actually there are only three colors involved: Cyan, Magenta, and Yellow. Black is added because we live in an imperfect world. In theory, if you mix 100% Cyan, 100% Magenta and 100% Yellow, you should get Black. But you actually get a muddy reddish brown. Black is added both to achieve a real black and to replace some of the other colors in a process called Under Color Removal (UCR) or Grey Component Reduction (GCR). Maybe more about that at a later time. The CMYK spectrum only gets us about a million colors (100 steps of each of the three).

How and where an image is converted from RGB to CMYK is critical to how it will look when it’s printed. As you can see, the gamut (or range of colors) in RGB is substantially greater than that of CMYK. And since 100% of all the colors in one model equals white and in the other it equals black, you might guess there is more to converting between the two than meets the eye. The best plan is to convert the color in software designed for that purpose: PhotoShop. While most RIPs will do this conversion on the fly, some handle it much better than others. Making the conversion yourself in PhotoShop will at least let you know which colors, if any, will change.

 

 

 

 

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